by Elaine Parker, Sojourn Bike Tour Leader
Since I first led the North Carolina/Outer Banks tour 6 years ago, I've wanted to end it and then load my bike with panniers, climb on, and cycle across the state and over the two big mountain ranges to Tennessee where I grew up. This year I finally found the time to do it.
I started planning the tour when Simon, my co-leader and friend, and I, were leading in Arizona this February and March. I remember dragging a map of North Carolina out as we all sat around digesting a fine lunch in the courtyard at the Rancho de la Osa.
Several guests on that tour happened to either be from the North Carolina/Tennessee area, or they had knowlege of it. Julia offered to put me up in her home in Statesville; Cecelia promised to send me literature about the mountain passes; Simon offered to drop me off to begin the ride as he drove the Sojourn rig up to D.C. from N.C in April; John and Wilma connected me with their son in Asheville; Lynn and Nancy offered advice from the Tennessee perspective.
The whole journey took shape on that day. Time went on and the plans became firmer. I continued to have conversations with new friends on tour. Sue, the great Prez of Sojourn, offered strong encouragement, as did Amy, our incredibly enthusiastic office Goddess. Jan, one of the investors in Sojourn, was excited too. He shared his experience of crossing the USA on a bike during his younger days. Several other folks had similar stories.
I myself had logged some fine adventure experiences traveling on a loaded bike with my partner, Meg, in New Zealand and Latin America, as well as Vermont, Maine, North Carolina, and Hawaii, but this would be my first serious solo sojourn. My family was psyched too. I felt such a warm sense of community as our little tribe of travelers wove a supportive web around me. I estimated the ride to be about 500 miles, with 2 big climbs over both the Blue Ridge and Smokey Mountains.
The smaller ranges on either side of these would also need to be negotiated. I'd be going east-to-west into the prevailing winds and over some of the roughest terrain in the east. It was created by the paths of the glaciers as they carved the land into great mountains and valleys and during the last Ice Age. The Appalachians were once as mighty as the Himalayas, dwarfing the puny Rockies. Spring in the Smokies can often dish out some nasty weather, but it is also my favorite time of year there. Services would be sparse, as the route would be fairly remote, but Sue had called to offer the free use of Sojourn's cell phone. I gave myself 5 days to accomplish the ride. What a fine challenge this would be!
Simon supported me with typical generosity by working long into Saturday night and early Sunday morning to finish our post-tour chores and get me on the road a day early, Now I had 6 days - more realistic. He set me down in an empty parking lot outside of Raleigh with a hale a hearty farewell.
Here's a little description of the adventure:
Day One: Sunday. Raleigh to Geensboro. Rolling farmland. No services the last 30 miles. 80 miles today.
Day Two: Monday. Geensboro to Union Grove.
Rolling farmland with some very pretty and remote sections towards the end of the day. Julia Arnold, who became my nightly confidant, sagged me down to her house to spend the night. Our roles were reversed! Now she was my tour leader. She seemed like an angel as she scooped me up that night after a grueling 90-mile day into a 20mph headwind.
Day Three: Union Grove to Lenoir. The first mountain section, over the Brushy Mountains, came at the beginning of this day. It was a tough 55 miles, as I was truly beat from the first 2 days. I got slammed by thunderstorms packing high winds and hail in the afternoon. Fortunately, I got pep talks via the precious cell phone from Meg, my Mama June, Sue, and Julia.
Day Four: Lenoir to Burnsville. This was the day I'd been secretly getting nervous about. I didn't have much detailed information about terrain, which kept the dread factor low, but Meg had taken the trouble to go online and count topo lines for this big ascent. I knew I was looking at least a 2,600' climb. It turned out to be more like 3,000' with a nice little 1,000' warm-up, even and steeper than I had anticipated. The locals were clicking their tongues, rolling their eyes, and offering me rides in pickup trucks when I told them my route plans. I was getting psyched out in spite of myself. No matter what anyone says about taking the right gear and getting in optimal shape for a ride like this, when it gets down to it, it's all about what's in your head. Ultimately, it's just you and the mountain and whatever you carry inside. If your head is full of negativity, you're doomed.
I stopped in Lenoir to get my tires topped off at an auto tire store (I only saw 2 bike shops the whole ride; one on the first day and one on the last). The heavily tatooed, almost toothless proprietor was asking me about my ride. I told him I was climbing up 181 that day and he got quiet. "I'm beginning to wonder if I can do it with all the strong reaction I've gotten," I said a little shakily. He stood up and looked me square in the eye. "Aw, you'll do 'er alright. Ah kin jest tell by lookin' at ya." Then he shot me a beautiful smile and the old high-five. I took that man with me in my head up the steepest climb I've seen since Guatemala. He was my savior. I had many such experiences with the proud, gentle country folks of the Appalachians.
It was a humid 90F day and the Blue Ridge Parkway was closed because of blow-downs from the storms of the previous night. The tiny towns and back roads I wound through as an alternative to the Parkway were an unexpected gift. The closure carved 35 miles away from my journey, and that was a good thing. 70 miles.
Day Five: Lenoir to Hot Springs. Now every mile is either a huge ascent or a huge descent. The terrain is tough and exhausting, but my spirits are constantly refreshed by the sight of the new spring growth and an outrageous perfusion of mountain wildflowers. The sky, constantly changing its mood, is a riot of motion.
This is the day that makes it all worthwhile. I climbed two big mountain passes today to work my way up into the Smokies.
Hot Springs is an outdoor lover's paradise, located just a few miles from the Appalachian Trail and near some of the best whitewater rafting in the world, it is a crossroads for the adventure traveler.
There is also a beautiful thermal spring that runs thru it.
I "took the waters" in a pool this early evening in a gorge at the confluence of 2 great rivers as storms collided overhead, then ate one of my many dinners of cornbread and pinto beans. Heaven. 50 miles.
Day Six: Hot Springs, NC to Maryville, TN, my hometown. I climbed out of town this morning and by now I was in touch with Mama June, my sister Annette, and her husband Steve. Annette promised to sag me if the day got to be too much, and Steve, her Harley Man, mapped out a stunning route thru the back roads of the foothills of the Smokies. Mama June made her famous cornbread and her sweetheart Ralph made an organic homemade soup that made us all eat too much that night.
Sure enough, as I cycled through a particularly windy and traffic-choked part of the day, I heard a good ole "Yee-Ha" and there were my bro and sis in the pick-up, hanging their foolish heads out the window like a couple of hounds. They jerked my panniers off the bike and allowed me the last 35 miles unloaded. Blessed be.
Wear's Valley and Walden Creek wove thru little settlements with names from old Carter Family and Dolly Parton songs. Memories of my childhood days came flooding in; some good and some sad. I was washed in the past, swimming in that emotional mixture of exhaustion and endorphin high that only my fellow cyclists who have reached a bit farther than they thought they could, will understand.
I pulled up to Mama's house right at supper time and pushed my bike right in the front door. What a beautiful family I have, all full of smiles and sweetness. 85 miles. Indeed, it was a fine adventure and now a fine visit would begin.
Hope Y'all enjoyed my little story. Be well and Happy Trails.
Elaine Parker April 29, 2007